“…despite all the problems they have…”

I left Cuba pretty confused. I wasn’t sure if I loved it or hated it or fell somewhere in the middle. The more time passes since I’ve left and I still find myself pretty fascinated by the country. I still can’t forget the day Tomas and myself checked out the revolution museum. After a two hour accidental detour we found the place and as we approached the building I noticed a dog that looked like it was chewing on a big piece of meat, rolling it around in his mouth deciding on whether or not he wanted to eat it. I walked past the dog and then turned around to notice another female dog sitting in the gutter about 2 metres away. She looked exhausted and had her belly facing upwards exposing her nipples and it was then I realised that the first dog held its newborn pup in his mouth and was trying to bring it back to life. Around them, taxi drivers stood hassling tourists and the police across the road stood in silence looking rather bored; everyone was just doing what they had to.

Our second week in we found a book at one of the casas with the following quote;

“All journeys have a secret destination of which the traveller is unaware.”

-Martin Burber

Underneath written in sharpie was a message from my friend Mahmoud;

“I leave this book for all the brave travellers who have travelled this route to discover Cuba and its people despite all the problems they have.”

As you’ll see below it looks like he has crossed out the word warmth and replaced it with people, which is something I’ve only noticed months later.

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How to NOT find a taxi in Cuba. 

I’m sititng in a park right now somewhere in Havana. Zag and Kim the kiwi girl from our hostel are sitting across from me on park benches with both their back packs and Tomas’ bags as well. The three of us have no idea where we are and no idea where Tomas’ is, he disappeared with our ‘taxi’ driver about 45 minutes ago to ‘get the car’ while we waited with the bags. A Cuban man stands before me attempting to practise his english which is difficult for both of us and can only go so far due to my complete lack of Spanish. Before continuing his walk through the park he asks me if I had any english reading material he could have but I’m completely distracted by our scenario to remember I have a copy of GQ (with Pharell on the cover) in my bag and he leaves empty handed. Its such a shame as he is dressed quite well for his old age and the image of him strolling around the streets with it in his hands is quite an amusing one. 
A man walks through the street with a vegetable cart and we’re in the process of buying a few tomatoes when the car pulls up and Tomas, the man who we are about to discover has stuffed us around and our actual taxi driver get out and begin loading our bags into a taxi. Its been about 2 hours since we left the hostel that morning and we still hadn’t left Havana yet. It was worse for Tomas, he had followed this guy on foot, bus and taxi to get to where the actual taxi drivers were. Yes, they took a taxi to go find a taxi. What a waste of time. I shudder to think how this process would’ve gone today without Tomas’. He’s from Hungary but speaks 4 languages fluently, including the same Spanish that they speak here in Cuba. He learnt in the Canary Islands off Spain which is lucky because I’ve spoken to several central/south americans who say that even they have trouble communicating with the locals! 
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The drive to the coast took about 3 hours. Magnolia, the host at the hostel, had organised for us to stay at Matanzas which is a town about 30mins away from the beach. We went for a walk around the town but there was sweet-FA to do in the town so we did what you do in Cuba when you have nothing to do; buy rum & talk shit. 

“..First stop, Havana Go-go..”

 

Finally after nearly 48 hours of stopovers, we had arrived in Havana, Cuba. To my surprise there was a man at the airport, waiting, with a sign, that read ‘TOMAS DALTON’ which kinda freaked me out until I remembered. I’d organised a ride with one of the accommodations that I ended up cancelling. Whoops. If I’d known the extent of the countries disorganisation (From my own experience, not just from what I had been told), I wouldn’t have felt bad about scoring the lift and not staying at the hostel*. My initial thought on Cuba would remain the theme of my thinking for the entire three weeks; everything contradicted itself. The streets were full of beautiful old school cars and architecture just like I’d seen in pictures but everything seemed like it needed a paint job or renovation or both. There were murals everywhere of Che Guevara and Fidel Castro along with proclamations that the Cubans ‘Defend the Revolution’ which again, makes sense, but actually doesn’t.

We arrived at the hotel, signed in with our passports then headed upstairs. This is the only proper ‘hostel’ in Cuba in terms of dorm rooms/common area/kitchen etc. and probably the best thing to happen to us in Cuba**. There were about 5 people in the common room; an African born Canadian, a couple of girls from Europe, a young German boy and a man from Hungary also named Tomas. After the introductions they spent about 10 minutes giving us advice on food, the double currency, what not to do, where to eat…the list went on so long that most of the information, as invaluable as it was, became impossible to absorb.

We went for a walk around Central Havana, not finding anything to eat, instead finding $***4 bottles of Havana Club Rum which we bought and headed back to the hostel as it was getting dark and we didn’t know our way around. For the next 5 hours Zag and I sat around with Mahmoud, (the Canadian man) listening to his stories about Cuba and the rest of the world whilst drinking rum and looking through his pictures. He was a photographer and had seen a thing or two in his lifetime to say the least. About two hours into the conversation Zag asked him how old he was, I was thinking the same as he looked about 30-35 but the stories were not adding up. I’ll have what this guy is having, he was fifty fucking two years old and fit as a fiddle. I asked him what his age defying secret was to which he simply replied, “I walk everywhere.”

The others arrived back from dinner along with the addition of a Kiwi Chic and a cute guy from Argentina and the whole group of us decided to head out to a salsa club where the oldest gent in the hostel recommended us to go. I can’t remember his name but the image of his wrinkly body lying on the bottom bunk dressed only in his jocks is permanently burnt into the back of my skull.

The unlikely band of misfits took a local bus (costs less then a cent per person) to this salsa club which is right on the edge of the water. Cue purchase of another bottle of rum and within about 15 minutes Zag and myself were being taught how to salsa by the other lads there…..very unsuccessfully and very amusing for onlookers I’m sure. The rest of the night is a blur but basically involved another crazy bus ride home, walking to find pizza (which costs 30cents) and stumbling home to bed where I would be for the next 14 hours on account of my disgusting rum hangover. 

   

 

 

   

 
*A pre-organised Taxi from the airport into Havana cost us $35CUC and I’d gotten quotes from about 3 different places prior to landing. I’ve heard the taxi should cost you $15-$20 if you just walk down the road and barter with a driver but if you don’t speak Spanish it’ll be a total fuck around. The local bus is super super cheap, maybe 20c but again signs and timetables are non-existent in this country so be prepared for an adventure if you choose that option.

**The hostel is called Hamel Hostel. Its located on Hospital Street, Central Havana about 15mins walk from Havana Viejo(Old Havana/Tourist Area). Its great to stay here as its $5CUC per person a night and its way more social then staying in one of the Casa Particulars. Handy if you are travelling by yourself or wanting to meet new people. The host Magnolia is really nice and can hook you up with accommodation in other areas of Cuba. Best way to get in contact is via couchsurfing.com

***The two currencies in Cuba can be confusing. The CUC is the convertible peso and is worth the same as the US dollar. They’ll fuck you over more with the US then the EU though so if getting euros is an option I’d recommend that(especially for aussies as the AUS isn’t strong against the US at the moment so you get double screwed.)